There is something about October in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula that makes me wonder why anyone would be in such a hurry to leave.
Perhaps it’s the cooler mornings, when that first cup of coffee tastes a little better. Maybe it’s the quiet that settles over the campgrounds once the summer travelers have headed home. Or perhaps it’s simply the trees, dressed in their autumn colors, reminding us that Mother Nature has a way of putting on a show without charging admission.
Whatever the reason, Vicky and I have always enjoyed Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, and autumn gives us one more reason to return.
If you have never experienced the U.P. during October, you are missing something special. The mosquitoes have largely disappeared, the summer crowds have thinned, and the forests are changing almost daily. Reds, oranges, yellows, and golds mingle with the evergreens, creating a landscape that sometimes seems too beautiful to be real.
And just when you think you’ve seen the prettiest stretch of road, another Cooper Shortcut leads you somewhere even better.
One of those places is Hiawatha National Forest.
Hiawatha National Forest: Where Autumn Slows Everything Down
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula has no shortage of beautiful places, but Hiawatha National Forest holds a special appeal for those of us who enjoy wandering away from the busier destinations.
Spread across portions of the eastern and central Upper Peninsula, the forest offers a wonderful mixture of inland lakes, quiet woodland roads, sandy shorelines, and rustic campgrounds.
It isn’t a place where you need a complicated itinerary.
In fact, I would suggest quite the opposite.
Find yourself a campground, settle in, and allow a little time for whatever catches your attention.
You might spend the morning walking along a lakeshore, take an afternoon drive beneath the colorful canopy, or simply sit outside your camper watching the leaves drift toward the ground.
And don’t be surprised if that afternoon drive takes considerably longer than expected. There is always another lake, another overlook, or another narrow road that seems worth exploring.
Vicky has become rather accustomed to those little detours.
After all, we aren’t lost. We’re taking a Cooper Shortcut!
October Is a Wonderful Time to Visit
One of the things I appreciate about fall camping is that the pace changes.
During summer, popular destinations such as Tahquamenon Falls and Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore can be crowded. By October, much of that summer activity has faded, although a beautiful fall weekend can still attract plenty of leaf-peepers.
The first couple of weeks in October are often excellent for autumn colors throughout much of the Upper Peninsula. Higher elevations and inland forests generally change first, while some areas along the Great Lakes hold their colors a little longer.
Of course, Mother Nature doesn’t consult a calendar.
An early frost, a stretch of warm weather, or a few windy days can change the timing considerably. Rather than planning everything around one particular weekend, we prefer to enjoy whatever the season happens to offer.
There is something equally beautiful about a forest at peak color and one beginning to shed its leaves.
The weather deserves a little respect, too.
October mornings can be downright chilly, especially away from the lakeshores. Temperatures in the 40s aren’t unusual, and a frosty morning is certainly possible. Lake Superior can introduce wind, rain, and rapidly changing conditions.
For those of us traveling with an RV, that means keeping an eye on the forecast and being prepared for cooler nights. We make certain our furnace is working properly, our propane supply is adequate, and our water system isn’t exposed to freezing temperatures.
We’ve learned that enjoying autumn camping is much easier when you aren’t spending the morning trying to thaw a frozen water hose.
And I wouldn’t leave home without a warm jacket, comfortable walking shoes, and a few extra layers.
You can always take a jacket off. It’s a little harder to put one on if you left it hanging in the closet back home.
Lake Michigan Campground: A Shoreline Worth Remembering
One of the more interesting camping opportunities in Hiawatha National Forest is Lake Michigan Campground, located along US-2 near Moran, approximately 18 miles west of the Mackinac Bridge.
Now, if you’ve traveled across the Upper Peninsula on US-2, you already know how beautiful that stretch of highway can be.
Lake Michigan stretches alongside the road, sometimes calm and inviting, other times reminding you that the Great Lakes are perfectly capable of producing waves that look more like something you’d expect along an ocean coastline.
Lake Michigan Campground sits between the highway and the lakeshore, with campsites tucked among sandy dunes and wooded areas.
What appeals to me about this campground is its simplicity.
There are no elaborate amenities, swimming pools, or activity schedules. The attraction is the setting itself.
Imagine waking up to the sound of waves rolling onto the beach, stepping outside with a cup of coffee, and walking a short distance to watch the morning light settle over Lake Michigan.
Or perhaps taking an evening stroll along the sand as the sun begins disappearing toward the horizon.
I don’t know about you, but that sounds like a pretty good camping experience to me.
The campground has roughly three dozen rustic campsites, with picnic tables, fire rings, vault toilets, and shared water facilities. There are no individual electric, water, or sewer hookups.
Some sites provide convenient access to the beach, while others are closer to US-2. That is worth considering when choosing a campsite, particularly if you’re hoping for a quiet night.
The sandy terrain is another consideration.
Anyone traveling with a larger RV should carefully review individual campsite dimensions, access roads, and available maneuvering room before making a reservation.
Our 45-foot fifth-wheel, for example, isn’t something I would casually pull into a small rustic campground without knowing whether we could safely navigate the roads and fit the campsite.
There are places where a smaller travel trailer, camper van, truck camper, or tent makes considerably more sense.
And that’s perfectly fine.
There is no wrong way to camp, provided you’re enjoying the experience and respecting the place you’re visiting.
For reservations and current campground information, visit Recreation.gov or the Hiawatha National Forest website. Be sure to confirm seasonal operating dates before planning an October stay.
Little Bass Lake: Sometimes Smaller Is Better
If your idea of a perfect campground involves fewer neighbors and more trees, Little Bass Lake might be worth considering.
Located in the Rapid River/Manistique Ranger District of Hiawatha National Forest, Little Bass Lake offers a much different camping experience from the Lake Michigan shoreline.
Here, the attraction is an approximately 84-acre inland lake surrounded by forest.
With only five rustic campsites, it isn’t the sort of place where you’re likely to find a busy campground atmosphere.
And that’s part of its charm.
Imagine sitting beside the lake in the early morning, watching a thin layer of mist slowly disappear as the sunlight begins reaching through the trees.
A few leaves drift onto the water. Somewhere across the lake, a bird breaks the silence.
There isn’t much happening.
Isn’t that wonderful?
For anyone who enjoys fishing, Little Bass Lake offers opportunities to catch species such as bass, bluegill, northern pike, perch, and crappie.
A canoe or kayak would be a wonderful way to explore the water, provided conditions are suitable.
The campground is primitive, so visitors need to arrive prepared. There is no drinking water available, and campers are expected to pack out their trash.
That’s something worth emphasizing.
Rustic camping can be incredibly rewarding, but it requires a little more planning than pulling into a campground with full hookups.
You need enough fresh water for drinking, cooking, and washing. You’ll also want to consider your battery capacity, lighting, and how you’ll manage without electrical service.
For us, these considerations are simply part of deciding which campground is appropriate for our equipment.
A smaller RV or tent would be a more natural fit for Little Bass Lake than our fifth-wheel.
And if you’re accustomed to having unlimited water available at the turn of a faucet, a few nights of primitive camping can be a wonderful reminder of just how much water we actually use.
Little Bass Lake campsites are reservable through Recreation.gov. Current fees, access conditions, reservation windows, and seasonal availability should be checked before leaving home.
One more thing worth remembering: firewood restrictions are intended to protect the forest from invasive insects and diseases. Use only wood permitted under current local rules, and never assume that bringing firewood from home is acceptable.
The trees are the reason we’re visiting. Taking care of them seems like the least we can do.
The Beauty Isn’t Always Along the Main Road
One of my favorite things about the Upper Peninsula is how quickly the scenery can change.
You can be traveling along a familiar highway one moment and find yourself surrounded by forest a few minutes later.
Hiawatha National Forest has countless opportunities to experience that quieter side of Michigan.
Inland lakes reflect the autumn colors so perfectly on calm days that it’s sometimes difficult to distinguish the trees from their reflections.
A gentle breeze changes everything, turning the mirror-like surface into a thousand little ripples.
Then the wind settles, and the reflection returns.
It’s the sort of thing you could easily miss if you’re watching the clock.
And that brings me to the photographs accompanying this story.
Moccasin Lake, Council Lake, Scout Lake, Doe Lake, and Pete’s Lake each offer a different glimpse of autumn in Hiawatha National Forest.
The rainbow above Moccasin Lake, with dark storm clouds behind a brilliantly colored shoreline, is especially striking. What a contrast!
Council Lake and Doe Lake offer those magnificent reflections that make autumn photography so rewarding.
Scout Lake captures something else I love about the U.P.: the feeling of standing beside a quiet lake with nothing more pressing to do than appreciate what’s in front of you.
And Pete’s Lake, with its gentle morning colors and lingering mist, reminds me that sometimes the most memorable scenery doesn’t require a brilliant red maple or a dramatic sunset.
Sometimes a little fog, a quiet shoreline, and the first light of morning are more than enough.
More Than Fall Colors
Of course, you don’t have to spend your entire visit looking at trees.
The Upper Peninsula offers plenty of reasons to venture beyond your campsite.
Tahquamenon Falls is particularly beautiful during autumn, when the surrounding forest adds another layer of color to the already impressive waterfalls.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore near Munising is another favorite, although autumn weather can affect boat tours and other seasonal activities.
There are also the many waterfalls scattered throughout the U.P., along with lighthouses, hiking trails, and small communities worth exploring.
Farther west, the Porcupine Mountains and Brockway Mountain Drive offer remarkable autumn scenery if your travels take you in that direction.
Just remember that the Upper Peninsula is a big place.
What looks like a short distance on a map can turn into several hours of driving, especially when you find yourself stopping to enjoy the scenery.
Rather than attempting to see everything in one trip, we prefer to explore a particular area and save the rest for another adventure.
After all, the places we don’t visit today give us another reason to return tomorrow.
October also brings shorter days and longer evenings.
On a clear night, away from city lights, the Upper Peninsula can offer spectacular stargazing. And if conditions cooperate, you might even have an opportunity to see the Northern Lights.
We’ve learned that some of the best memories happen after the day’s planned activities are finished.
A quiet evening, a warm campfire where permitted, and a sky full of stars can be every bit as memorable as the places we visited that afternoon.
Around the Campfire
Is October too late to camp in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula?
Not necessarily, although it depends on where you intend to stay and the kind of camping you enjoy.
Some campgrounds close after the summer season, while others remain available into autumn. Water systems, restrooms, and other facilities may be shut down before the campground itself closes.
That is why we always recommend checking directly with the campground before traveling. A campsite appearing on a map doesn’t necessarily mean it is available for an October reservation.
Would you recommend bringing a large fifth-wheel into Hiawatha National Forest?
That depends entirely on the campground and the individual campsite.
There are campgrounds better suited to larger RVs, but many of the rustic forest locations were designed with smaller campers and tents in mind.
With our fifth-wheel, we would be inclined to establish a base camp at a campground capable of comfortably accommodating our rig and explore the smaller lakes and rustic camping areas during day trips.
It gives us the freedom to enjoy those beautiful places without worrying about getting our fifth-wheel into somewhere it doesn’t belong.
What about cell phone service?
Don’t count on having reliable service everywhere.
Some of the remote areas of the Upper Peninsula have limited coverage, and wooded terrain can make reception unpredictable.
We travel with multiple communication options, but I still believe there is value in carrying a paper map and downloading maps for offline use before heading into remote areas.
It’s also wise to let someone know where you’re going if you plan to explore isolated trails or forest roads.
Are restaurants and attractions still open in October?
Many are, but some businesses begin reducing their hours or closing for the season as summer ends.
We’ve encountered enough seasonal changes during our travels to know that checking ahead can save an unnecessary drive.
Of course, when a restaurant is closed, that sometimes means another meal prepared back at the camper.
And depending on what’s on the menu, that isn’t necessarily a disappointment!
Final Thoughts
I suppose one of the reasons Vicky and I enjoy camping so much is that it gives us an opportunity to appreciate things we might otherwise overlook.
A quiet lake.
The sound of leaves moving through the trees.
A morning when the air is cold enough to make you appreciate a warm cup of coffee.
A rainbow appearing beneath storm clouds.
None of those experiences requires an expensive attraction, an admission ticket, or a carefully organized schedule.
They simply require us to be there.
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is beautiful throughout the year, but autumn brings a special kind of peacefulness to the landscape.
Hiawatha National Forest is a wonderful place to experience it, whether you’re camping beside an inland lake, walking along the Lake Michigan shoreline, or simply taking the long way around to see what might be waiting beyond the next bend.
And if you find yourself stopping beside a quiet lake just to watch the reflections, don’t worry about how much time you’re spending.
That’s part of the journey.
We’re not trying to get there first. We’re trying to enjoy getting there.
Until our next Cooper Shortcut, happy camping!
The Cooper Shortcut Camping Journey Trio 😊 PlusOne!
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