It is the middle of September. The nights are cooler, the early mornings have a little bite to them, and every now and then a leaf floats past the windshield as if to remind us that another Michigan summer is winding down.
Must be time to winterize the RV, right?
Here’s hoping you didn’t answer yes.
For us, September doesn’t signal the end of camping season. In many ways, it opens the door to one of the best times of the year to hitch up the RV and head north.
The summer crowds begin to thin. Campfires feel a little better after sunset. Sweatshirts come out of storage. And somewhere along the way, the green walls lining Michigan’s highways begin giving way to reds, yellows and oranges.
If we are going to keep camping into fall, there are few places we would rather point the truck toward than Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and Tahquamenon Falls State Park.
There Is More Here Than a Waterfall
Mention Tahquamenon Falls and most of us immediately picture that enormous curtain of amber-colored water pouring over the Upper Falls.
And rightfully so.
The Upper Falls stretches more than 200 feet across, making it one of the largest waterfalls in the eastern United States. The familiar brownish-orange color of the Tahquamenon River comes from tannins carried into the water from surrounding vegetation and wetlands. Those same waters tumble roughly 50 feet at the Upper Falls before continuing their journey downstream. (Michigan)
But stopping at the waterfall overlooks and then heading home would mean missing much of what makes this part of the Upper Peninsula special.
Tahquamenon Falls State Park covers nearly 50,000 acres of U.P. wilderness. There are inland lakes, miles of river, large stretches of natural area and enough hiking trails to keep a pair of boots occupied for quite some time.
The North Country National Scenic Trail alone travels approximately 16 miles through the park, including the route connecting the Upper and Lower Falls. (Michigan)
That is one of the things I enjoy about Tahquamenon. You can make the waterfalls the reason for coming and then discover there was much more waiting for you.
Depending on the season, visitors come here to hike, fish, canoe, photograph wildlife, hunt, snowshoe, cross-country ski or simply disappear into the woods for a while.
And there is wildlife.
Black bears, coyotes, otters, deer, foxes, porcupines, beavers and numerous species of birds call this country home. Moose are also occasionally spotted in the park’s wetter areas, including along M-123 between Paradise and the Lower Falls. (Michigan)
No, seeing a moose is not guaranteed.
But I can assure you we would still be looking.
Upper Falls Deserves More Than a Quick Stop
There is something about hearing a waterfall before you have a good view of it.
You walk a little farther, the sound grows louder, and then suddenly the trees give way to something that photographs never quite capture.
That is the Upper Tahquamenon Falls.
The tremendous amount of water passing over the edge creates the familiar foam below, while the tannin-stained river gives the falls a color unlike many of the waterfalls we have visited elsewhere.
And visiting the Upper Falls became considerably easier in 2026.
A new 1,100-foot fully accessible boardwalk opened this spring, replacing an aging staircase and providing a much more accessible route toward the brink of the falls. Five switchback landings provide places to rest along the way, with benches, interpretive displays and views through the old-growth forest toward the river and falls. (Michigan)
That is an improvement worth mentioning because accessibility can be the difference between someone hearing about a beautiful place and actually being able to experience it.
Four Miles Downstream, Everything Changes
Follow the river about four miles downstream and Tahquamenon shows you a different personality.
The Lower Falls are not one enormous drop. Instead, the river divides around an island and tumbles through a series of smaller cascades.
For generations, one of the adventures here has been renting a rowboat and crossing the calm basin to the island.
Today there is another choice.
The Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge allows visitors to walk onto the island, giving people another way to experience the Lower Falls without getting into a boat. Rowboat rentals remain part of the Lower Falls experience for those who would rather reach the island the old-fashioned way. (Michigan)
Personally, I like that.
Build the bridge and improve accessibility, but don’t take away the rowboat.
Sometimes the journey across the water becomes as memorable as what was waiting on the other side.
Camping Among the Hemlocks
For RV campers, staying inside Tahquamenon Falls State Park changes the experience.
Instead of driving in, seeing the falls and leaving, you get to wake up surrounded by the U.P.
At the Lower Falls Modern Campground, Portage and Hemlock Loops offer two slightly different experiences, and choosing between them depends upon what matters most to you.
Portage puts you closer to the Lower Falls and makes getting to the river and viewing areas easier. If your plan involves spending a lot of time around the falls, that convenience is difficult to overlook.
Hemlock trades some of that convenience for a more wooded setting. Mature trees provide additional shade and a little more of the tucked-away-in-the-forest feeling many of us are looking for when we go camping.
There is another important difference for fall campers.
The Michigan DNR’s current 2026 operating schedule lists Lower Falls-Hemlock as a year-round campground, while Portage’s regular season runs from May 15 through October 14. (Michigan)
That makes Hemlock particularly interesting to those of us who refuse to accept that Labor Day somehow means the RV has to go into hibernation.
Late-season campers should still check current park conditions and water availability before leaving home. “Campground open” does not necessarily mean every warm-weather service remains operating after freezing temperatures arrive.
And with our 45-foot fifth-wheel, campground dimensions are never something I leave to chance. A site that is perfectly comfortable for a smaller travel trailer may be an entirely different proposition when you arrive with a long fifth-wheel and tow vehicle. I would check the reservation system for the individual site’s length and configuration, not simply assume that because the campground accepts RVs, every site will accept ours.
That five-minute check at home can prevent a rather interesting afternoon backing through the woods.
One Thing I Would Download Before Leaving Home
Your maps.
Tahquamenon is one of those places where your phone may suddenly remember that its primary purpose was once making phone calls—and even that can become questionable.
Cellular coverage can be weak or nonexistent in portions of the park. I would download maps, campground information, hiking routes and anything else we might need before arriving.
For those of us traveling with additional communication equipment, a booster may help when there is a weak signal available, but no booster can amplify a signal that isn’t there.
Frankly, there is something refreshing about that.
We spend enough of our lives staring at screens.
Just don’t discover you needed the screen to find your way back to the campground.
Take M-123 and Don’t Be in a Hurry
Part of a fall trip to Tahquamenon is simply getting there.
M-123 winds through thick Upper Peninsula forest, and during autumn the trees become part of the journey. This is not the road where I want to be watching the clock and wondering how quickly we can reach the campground.
This is Michigan’s U.P.
Slow down.
Watch the colors.
Stop when something catches your attention.
And remember our philosophy:
We’re not trying to get there first. We’re trying to enjoy getting there.
Those looking for a little more adventure can find plenty of unpaved roads throughout the surrounding country, including routes leading toward remote stretches of Lake Superior. But I would separate those adventures from towing the RV. Road conditions can change, and a perfectly reasonable forest road for a truck or off-road vehicle may be an entirely different experience pulling a large fifth-wheel.
There is a time for exploring.
There is also a time for getting the house parked first.
Around the Campfire
Can we really camp at Tahquamenon Falls in the fall?
Absolutely. In fact, that may be one of the best reasons to come. Hemlock Campground is currently listed by the Michigan DNR as operating year-round, although seasonal utilities and services can change as temperatures fall. Always check current conditions before heading north. (Michigan)
Can we hike from one waterfall to the other?
Yes. The North Country Trail runs between the Upper and Lower Falls as part of its 16-mile route through the park. Don’t mistake “only a few miles apart” for an easy stroll, however. This is a real hike, so carry water, dress for changing U.P. weather and know how you are getting back before starting. (Michigan)
Is there still a shuttle after Labor Day?
Yes, but this is one place where I found that some older park information does not tell the whole current story. For 2026, Hunter Transportation lists fall service continuing through October 11, with schedules changing later in September and reservations required for certain weekday service. Because times and availability are seasonal, I would check the current schedule rather than build a hike around an old timetable. (Hunter Transportation)
Do we need the rowboat to reach the island at Lower Falls?
Not anymore. You can still enjoy the traditional rowboat experience when rentals are operating, but the Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge provides pedestrian access to the island as well. (Michigan)
What about internet and cell service?
Plan as though you won’t have it. Download what you need before entering the park. If you get a usable signal at your campsite, consider it a bonus.
Is the Upper Falls accessible for someone who cannot handle a long staircase?
This answer changed significantly in 2026. The new 1,100-foot fully accessible boardwalk provides a route toward the Upper Falls with five switchback landings, benches and viewing opportunities along the way. (Michigan)
Final Thoughts
Maybe the question isn’t whether it is time to winterize the RV.
Maybe the better question is:
What’s the hurry?
Michigan gives us four seasons, and I have never understood why we should voluntarily surrender one of the prettiest of them.
There is something different about camping in September and October. The campground quiets down earlier. Morning coffee tastes better when you have to wrap both hands around the cup. A campfire becomes more than atmosphere—it feels good.
Then there are those colors.
Drive north through Michigan as autumn begins taking hold and it sometimes feels as though the trees are closing in around the road, each one competing with the next to see which can put on the better show.
Eventually, you arrive at Tahquamenon.
You hear the Upper Falls thundering over the edge. You walk beside the amber-colored river. Maybe you follow a section of the North Country Trail. Perhaps you row across to the island at Lower Falls, or simply stand along the riverbank and wonder how many times that water has made the same journey.
Then evening comes.
Back at the campsite, the temperature drops another few degrees, somebody adds another piece of wood to the fire, and you realize something.
Winter will arrive soon enough.
There is no reason to invite it early.
The Cooper Shortcut Camping Journey Trio 😊 PlusOne!
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